(note spelling correction)
So we finally arrived in Fes and drove to our hotel in the old town. The hotel is one of the prettiest we have been at with mosaics and fountains and courtyards and balconies. My room was also pretty with painted wooden doors but smelt like some horrible middle ground between tomatoes, eggs and tuna.
We drove into the new town and had a very pleasant dinner at a simple modern city style pizza place. I had the tuna and onion pizza which was delicious.
Today we were due to spend the who day discovering Fes.
First we met the tour guide at the gate to the King's Palace. The gate actually has 7 different entrances representing the seven days of the week with the central biggest most ornate one being for Friday - the islam holy day.
Then we walked through the Jewish quarter and past the entrance to the Muslim Quarter. Weirdly the shops right by the Palace gates (a major tourist attraction) were very ordinary and common local people oriented - mattress shops and appliances and a green grocer.
According to the tour guide, the Muslims and Jews live in peace in this country because they are all Moroccan and the Jews left only to respond to the call to return to Israel. This is a pretty cool thing if what they say is true.
Perhaps they save all their disagreement energy for the Algerians.
Then we drove up a steep hill to a military post to take pictures of the overview of the medina. The medina is characterised by tall square buildings close together and narrow streets and many many many satellite dishes.
If my facts are correct, I think Fes medina is the biggest car-free zone in the world. (this does not mean the air in there is clean and fresh on the nose)
The Medina is ENORMOUS and only the locals know how to not get lost in it... Well even the locals Sometimes get lost.
Then we drove down the hill to a ceramic factory to see how the tiles and mosaics and crockery is made. The ceramic factory is outside the Medina due to the smoke from the kilns and the smell. I may or may not have spent a chunk of my holiday money there.
Then we finally drove down the hill and walked into the Medina (after a serious talk about not getting lost and watching out for criminals and pickpockets and not buying from funny looking people.)
First we hustled through the streets and stopped past a few pretty historic sites to finally reach the famous 14th century leather tannery. (which smelt so bad, the factory shops automatically give you springs of mint for free to push close to your wrinkling nose) I may or may not have spent another chunk of my spending money on some really beautiful awesome leather shoes.
Then we walked across to a factory where fabric made of cotton and or silk and or wool and or velvet is made. The fabric was very beautiful and I nearly spent my months salary on sheets and curtains and tables cloths and pretty other things until I realised that I don't have a months salary with me and it would just silly. The salesmen took head scarves and made Berber head dresses for us (think Lawrence of Arabia) and photos were taken.
I picked out some pretty scarves for some lady persons I am fond of and was then lured upstairs to the kaftanand djellaba shop. I bargained my way (with help entirely from the tour leader) into a pretty cool but uncheap Moroccan ladies shirt. So fashionable!
Then as Fes is famous for good food, we went to a great restaurant for lunch and had a chicken pie whose name I cannot say (pastilo? passilo? pastio?) it had cinnamon and sugar on top, crispy pastry, and chicken and almonds and other savoury filling inside. It was an odd mix of flavours about so so delicious.
We also stopped past a mosque to peer in at the door (nonMuslims are not allowed in) and visited the oldest university in the world and visited a Koranic School.
All these places were beautiful but in a years time it will be a blurred memory of very artistic colourful mosaics, carved cedar wood, plaster and marble.
Finally we went back to the bus and drove to the Blue Gate which is the main entrance to the Fes Medina.
Tonight, very little planned but the hotel walls are sure to ring of the wails of the 9 women on my tour trying to repack their bags before we leave for the desert tomorrow.
I am way way excited for the desert. Might not update blog until we get back tho...
So today was a busy busy expensive day. But if I can get it all inside my suitcase... It will definitely be worth it.
Day 4 complete :)